In a study published in Science Advances, scientists at Stockholm University have used lignin gel emulsions to create a completely bio-based hair conditioner that provides a sustainable and eco-friendly substitute for traditional hair care products.
The new lignin-based product was easily rinsed off from paper and skin with cold water despite its dark color, demonstrating practical usability. Image Credit: Mika Sipponen
The fact that hair conditioners can contain 20–30 components, many of which are sourced from petroleum and oleochemicals, raises concerns regarding sustainability and environmental impact. Micellar lignin gels can efficiently stabilize emulsions with natural oils, negating the need for sophisticated stabilizers and synthetic surfactants frequently employed in commercial formulations.
The Stockholm University study team, under Mika Sipponen's direction, aimed to investigate lignin, a prevalent and sustainable component of wood biomass, as a multipurpose hair conditioning ingredient.
Our findings highlight lignin’s potential as a stabilizer in oil-in-water emulsions, enabling a more natural and sustainable approach to hair conditioning. By using wood-derived lignin directly without any chemical modification, we not only simplify the ingredient list but also eliminate the need for organic solvents, making the process more eco-friendly.
Mika Sipponen, Associate Professor, Stockholm University
Comparable to Commercial Hair Conditioners
The lignin gel-based conditioner was compared to a commercial hair conditioner and demonstrated similar emulsion stability, viscosity, and conditioning effectiveness. A formulation containing 6% coconut oil efficiently lubricated damaged hair, reducing wet combing force by 13%, as demonstrated by combing force measurements and multiscale microscopy analysis. Importantly, despite its dark hue, the product was easily wiped off paper and skin with cold water, indicating its practicality.
New Opportunities in Cosmetics and Food
Ievgen Pylypchuk, who helped develop lignin gel as a versatile platform material, emphasized its higher potential.
Our lignin gel technology extends beyond personal care applications. Its unique ability to stabilize emulsions and interact with various biomolecules opens opportunities in cosmetics, food, and even biomedical formulations, offering a sustainable alternative to conventional ingredients.
Ievgen Pylypchuk, Researcher, Stockholm University
This breakthrough paves the way for greener haircare solutions that meet the growing customer demand for sustainable personal care products. The researchers plan to continue exploring lignin-based formulations for larger applications in the personal care market.
Journal Reference:
Wang, F. et. al. (2025) Lignin gel emulsions for environmentally benign hair conditioning. Science Advances. doi.org/10.1126/sciadv.adr8372