Yiqi Yang, a researcher at the University of Nebraska–Lincoln, has created a first-of-its-kind technology for fiber-to-fiber or chemical recycling that effectively eliminates dyes, distinguishes between natural and synthetic blends, and produces high-quality fibers, according to a study published in Resources, Conservation and Recycling.
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According to Yang, textile recycling has perplexed scholars and industry, but it is a problem that must be addressed.
In the last 20 years, the total fiber production has doubled. Right now, we consume more than 125 million metric tons of fibers per year. We cannot grow more natural fibers or raise more sheep. That’s not realistic, so we’re using more synthetic fibers, but the issue there is the ramification of nondegradable microparticles. If you can reuse fibers once or twice, that will be a huge reduction on the demand for new fibers and textile materials.
Yiqi Yang, Charles Bessey Professor, Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design and Biological Systems Engineering, University of Nebraska–Lincoln
Textile recycling does exist; however, it is primarily limited to breaking down textiles into fibers for use in other goods. Garment-to-garment recycling, or upcycling, is limited and cannot be done on an industrial scale. Yarn-to-yarn, or mechanical, recycling is possible, but the process is damaging and necessitates the addition of more than 50% fresh fibers to produce useable yarns.
Due to dyes and textile combinations, fiber-to-fiber recycling has proved difficult, if not impossible. Yang and an interdisciplinary team, including doctorate student Yuanyi Shao, created an aqueous system technology that yields high-quality fibers.
“Dyes are designed to have strong affinity to fibers for excellent colorfastness, so it is difficult to remove the dyes, and what we have done, first in the world, is to find a way to remove the dyes, without damaging the dyes or the fiber polymers. It not only recycles the fibers successfully, but also recycles the solvents and dyes used in the process,” added Yang.
YYang is pursuing a patent for the process and has published several articles demonstrating its successful application on a variety of textiles, including cotton and cotton-polyester blends, acrylics, wools, and even carpet.
The study applies the technology to old denim. It demonstrates that the system can successfully remove vat dyes from textiles and make artificial cellulosic fibers with qualities superior to those produced by artificial fibers made from wood pulp. The research also demonstrated that the procedure is economically viable and scalable.
Yang added, “Using our technology, you can recycle fibers from any textiles cost effectively, with excellent properties. Everything we did was having large-scale production in mind. Of course, we have to have industry interest because the industrial application requires heavy capital investment.”
Yang’s research team strives to reduce environmental expenses and promote the sustainability of the textile industry, with a focus on two areas: enhancing recycling and developing novel textiles from agricultural waste, such as chicken feathers.
Yang concluded, “I just don't see the future without these two choices that we are working on. We need to find new solutions to make more fibers and then recycle what we have. Without the two, we cannot meet the demands.”
Journal Reference:
Shao, Y., et al. (2025) A green technology for the close-loop recycling of vat dyed textiles. Resources, Conservation and Recycling. doi.org/10.1016/j.resconrec.2025.108265